Headband Earwarmer (Free Crochet Pattern)

This is another one of those patterns that I have made many of over the years. Headband earwarmers work up really quickly and look very cute. I think the thing I love the most is that they can be worn over a ponytail. That is something I have struggled with in the past, keeping the girls ears warm when they want to wear their hair up. They don’t like wearing a hat over their ponytail and to be fair, it does look pretty uncomfortable so I can see why they wouldn’t like it. This was our compromise. They get their ponytails and I get to cover their ears so I know they are warm ❤

To make your own headband earwarmer, you will need a 5mm crochet hook and double knit yarn in the colour of your choice. I let my girls choose their favourite colours, so I know there will be no fighting over wearing them. You will also need a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

This pattern should fit an age 6-10 years or up to about a 21″ head. The finished earwarmer should measure approximately 17.25″ in unstretched length and 3.25″ width.

Crochet Headband Earwarmer (Free Pattern)

Main:

1. ch17, hdc in 3rd chain from hook and across (15)

2-41. ch2, working in back loops only, hdc in stitch at base of chain and each stitch across (15)

42. join the two short ends together with slip stitch, to form a tube

43. bind off and weave in all ends

Flower:

1. make a magic loop, ch2, work 16 dcs into loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre tail to tighten (16)

2. ch1, do not turn, sc in same st, *ch4, sk 1st, sc in next st*, rep *-* until last st, ch4, join with slst in top of 1st sc

3. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with a slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

4. rejoin yarn in one of the skipped stitches on round 2, ch1, sc in same st, *ch3, sc in next skipped stitch*, rep from *-* around, ch3, join with slst in top of 1st sc

5. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

6. make a magic loop, ch1, *sc into loop, ch4*, rep *-* seven more times, join with slst in top of 1st sc

7. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with a slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

8. using the centre tail of the smaller flower, layer and stitch the small flower on top of the larger flower

9. stitch the flower onto the headband earwarmer

10. weave in all ends

I hope you find this free pattern useful and make a headband earwarmer of your own. Please let me know if you do make one so I can see your amazing work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) or better still why not join our Facebook group so we can all see!

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Learn to Crochet: Single Crochet Stitch (VIDEO)

In my last two Learn to Crochet videos, I taught you which tools you really need to get started in crochet, and how to work a slipknot and chain. In this video, I am going to show you how to work the single crochet stitch. The single crochet stitch is one of the most basic crochet stitches, and one that I use most days, so it is definitely a useful stitch to know.

For this square, I used a 4mm crochet hook and double knit yarn. You can use whichever hook size and yarn you prefer, but please remember that a different sized hook or yarn will give different finished measurements. To start, you will need to make a slipknot and chain 22. To make the single crochet, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Catch the yarn and bring it through the chain, which should give you two loops on your hook. Catch the yarn again and bring it through both loops. You have just worked a single crochet.

You can now make a slipknot, chain and work a single crochet. Well done! You’re well on your way to becoming an expert crocheter.

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Things I Made in August (Roundup)

This month I have been doing a lot of admin, so I haven’t had as much time to crochet as I would’ve liked. I still managed to make lots of cute things though, most of which are up for sale in my Etsy shop.

The first thing I made in August were these very cute baby sandals. I made them for a PDF pattern that I was designing. Both the PDF pattern and the finished sandals are available in my Etsy shop.

I also made some baby booties in three different colours, blue, lilac and beige. I love that these baby booties are so cute and gender neutral. The pattern can be found on my blog and the finished booties can be found on my Etsy shop.

I made lots of earsavers, for use with face masks. I love them because face masks leave me with really sore ears. I gave some to family and friends, and listed some in my Etsy shop. The pattern I used is my own, and is on my blog.

The last things I made in August were varying sizes of baby hoodies, with very cute baby bear ears, for a PDF pattern. The PDF pattern and the finished hoodies can be found in my Etsy shop.

Why not head over to my Facebook group and show us what you have been working on this month. We would love to see it.

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Basic Baby Booties (Free Crochet Pattern)

These crochet baby booties are cute and unisex, making a lovely gift for a new baby. The free pattern is perfect for beginners, or for more experienced crocheters wanting a quick and easy project. The pattern is available in sizes newborn and 0-3 months.

To make your own baby booties, you will need a 4.5mm crochet hook (or whichever size hook you need to achieve the right measurements), double knit yarn, a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

The pattern is available in sizes newborn and 0-3 months. The finished newborn sole should measure 4.25″ and the finished 0-3 months sole should measure 4.5″. My tension tends to be quite tight so please use whichever crochet hook size you need to get these measurements.

Basic Baby Booties (Free Crochet Pattern)

Newborn

To fit up to approximately 3.5” foot

4.25” sole length

Sole:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and two strands double knit yarn held together –

1. ch12, 5dcs in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 8sts, 5dcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of chain), dc in next 8sts, join with slst in top of 1st dc (26)

2. ch1, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 8sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 8sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (36)

Upper:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and one strand double knit yarn –

1. with wrong side facing and working in back loops only, join yarn at bottom of sole, ch1, hdc in same st as ch and around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (36)

2. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 8sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 8, hdc in next st, sc in 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (28)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 8sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 4, hdc in next st, sc in 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (24)

4. ch1, turn, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc (24)

5. ch2, dc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (24)

6. ch1, hdc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (24)

7. ch1, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off and weave in ends (24)

0-3m

To fit up to approximately 3.75” foot

4.5” sole length

Sole:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and two strands double knit yarn held together –

1. ch13, 5dcs in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 9sts, 5dcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of chain), dc in next 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st dc (28)

2. ch1, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (38)

Upper:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and one strand double knit yarn –

1. with wrong side facing and working in back loops only, join yarn at bottom of sole, ch1, hdc in same st as ch and around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (38)

2. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 9sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 8, hdc in next st, sc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (30)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 9sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 4, hdc in next st, sc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (26)

4. ch1, turn, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc (26)

5. ch2, dc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (26)

6. ch1, hdc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (26)

7. ch1, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off and weave in ends (26)

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Please let me know if you make anything using any of my patterns. I would love to see your work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations.

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Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

The baby bear hooded cardigan is my most requested pattern and also the bestselling item in my shop. It’s not hard to see why. I have made many of these cardigans for my children and at least one for every other baby in my life. Last week, I decided to design a pair of trousers to match the hooded cardigan, to make a new baby set. I really love the way they turned out and decided to share the newborn size with all of you, so you can make one for all the new babies in your lives.

Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

This set is very thick and cosy. It is worked with two strands of yarn held together. To make your own, you will need a 5mm and 6mm crochet hook, 250g double knit yarn, a tape measure, scissors, five buttons and a yarn needle.

CARDIGAN

To fit up to approximately 16” chest. The finished cardigan should be 20″ around (measured under the arms), 9.75″ shoulder to bottom and 5″ arm inseam.

BODY:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch31, work dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 3sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 9sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts

2-6. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 3dcs in middle st of each of previous row’s 3dcs

7. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and next 10sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 23sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 11sts

8. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 4dcs over each chain space (53)

9-13. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

14. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

15. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

SLEEVES:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn underarm, ch2, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, dc in next 18sts, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, join with slst in top of 1st st (22)

2-7. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st st

8. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and around (16)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

HOOD:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in top corner st, ch2, work 2dcs in same st, dc in each st across to last st, 2dcs in last st (31)

2-11. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (31)

12. fold the hood in half, with right sides together, then stitch along the top to form the hood, bind off and weave in ends

BUTTON BAND:

With a 5mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. with right side facing, join yarn in bottom corner st, ch1, work sc in same st and each st around body and hood to other bottom corner, work 2scs per dc row (106) 31, 44, 31

2. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

3. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and next st, *ch2, skip 1st, sc in 5sts*, repeat from *-* four more times, sc in 68sts

4. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across, working sc in each chain space (106)

5. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

EARS:

1. make a magic loop, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), work 5dcs in loop, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (6)

2. ch1, turn, work 2scs in each st across (12)

3. bind off, leaving a long tail to attach to cardigan

TROUSERS

The unstretched measurements of the trousers should be 15″ waist, 14″ rise, 5″ inside leg and 11″ length.

WAISTBAND:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (3)

2-40. ch1, working in back loops only, sc in each st across (3)

41. taking care not to twist your work, join with a slip stitch under two loops of the first row, this will leave a v shaped opening, which will need stitching up at the end

42. ch1, sc in stitch at base of chain and next 2sts (I counted each row as a stitch), *2scs in next st, sc in next 3sts*, repeat from *-* around to last st, work 2scs in last st, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

43. ch1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

BODY:

1. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

2. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc (50)

3. ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

4-5. repeat rows 2-3

6. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc, bind off (50)

GUSSET:

1. with back of st facing, count back 3sts from bind off stitch, join yarn, ch2, dc in same st and in next 6sts – you want the previous rows bind off to be right in the centre of the gusset (7)

2-3. ch2, turn, dc across

4. bind off, leaving a long tail, stitch the gusset to the middle 7sts on the opposite side of pants, check to make sure both legs have 18 stitches each

LEGS:

1. with back of st facing, join yarn in middle of gusset, ch2, work 2dcs in the side of each dc along the gusset, dc in corner stitch of leg and all around, work 2dcs in the side of the final dc on the gusset, join with slst in 1st dc (26)

2-6. ch1, turn, sc around, join with slst in first sc (26)

7. ch2, turn, *dc2tog, dc in next stitch*, repeat from *-* around, dc2tog last 2 stitches, work dc in same place as turning chain, join with slst in first dc (18)

8. switch back to main colour yarn, ch2, turn, dc around, join with slst in first dc (18)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* around to end, join with slst in top of 1st fpdc, bind off and weave in all ends

DRAWSTRING:

1. with contrasting yarn, ch110, slst in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across, bind off and weave in ends, thread through the holes in the waistband and stitch at the back to secure in place

I hope you enjoy this free pattern and crochet some new baby sets of your own. Let me know if you do use this pattern or any of my other patterns. Feel free to tag me in your work on social media (@adeleuyancrochet). I love to see what you are all making. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting!

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3D Butterfly (Free Crochet Pattern)

I first made a little 3D butterfly about 5 years ago, for a yarn bombing project I was taking part in with my local crochet group. We all made lots of flowers and butterflies and decorated a wall in the town centre with them. It looked amazing, if I say so myself. I recently tried to follow the pattern that I wrote back then and, as I wasn’t as experienced in pattern writing back then, it seemed unnecessarily complicated. I found myself getting frustrated with the pattern so I decided to update it. This is the updated pattern, easier and quicker to make but the end butterfly is still almost identical.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

If you would like to make your own, you will need a 4mm crochet hook and DK yarn. You will also need a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

3D Butterfly (Free Crochet Pattern)

Wings:

1. with mc, make a magic loop, ch2, work 16dcs in loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre yarn tail tightly to close loop (16)

2. ch2, do not turn, 2dcs in st at base of ch, ch1, 2dcs in same st, sk1st, *(2dcs, ch1, 2dcs) in next st, sk1st*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st dc

3. do not ch or turn, place stitch marker under join st, *2dcs in next chsp, ch1, 2dcs in same chsp, slst inbetween previous row’s shells*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st dc

4. ch1, do not turn, hdc in st at base of ch, dc in next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in chsp, dc in next st, hdc in next st, slst in previous row’s slst, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in chsp, dc in next st, hdc in next st, slst in previous row’s slst*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st hdc

5. join cc, ch1, do not turn, *hdc in 3sts, 3dcs in chsp, hdc in 3sts, slst in previous row’s slst*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off and weave in ends

Body:

1.with cc, ch36, bind off, fold butterfly in half and wrap body around wings, tie at the top of the wings to secure, tie a knot in the top of each antennae and weave in ends

I hope you enjoyed making this little 3D crochet butterfly. I would love to see any butterflies you make using this pattern. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them! Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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