Headband Earwarmer (Free Crochet Pattern)

This is another one of those patterns that I have made many of over the years. Headband earwarmers work up really quickly and look very cute. I think the thing I love the most is that they can be worn over a ponytail. That is something I have struggled with in the past, keeping the girls ears warm when they want to wear their hair up. They don’t like wearing a hat over their ponytail and to be fair, it does look pretty uncomfortable so I can see why they wouldn’t like it. This was our compromise. They get their ponytails and I get to cover their ears so I know they are warm ❤

To make your own headband earwarmer, you will need a 5mm crochet hook and double knit yarn in the colour of your choice. I let my girls choose their favourite colours, so I know there will be no fighting over wearing them. You will also need a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

This pattern should fit an age 6-10 years or up to about a 21″ head. The finished earwarmer should measure approximately 17.25″ in unstretched length and 3.25″ width.

Crochet Headband Earwarmer (Free Pattern)

Main:

1. ch17, hdc in 3rd chain from hook and across (15)

2-41. ch2, working in back loops only, hdc in stitch at base of chain and each stitch across (15)

42. join the two short ends together with slip stitch, to form a tube

43. bind off and weave in all ends

Flower:

1. make a magic loop, ch2, work 16 dcs into loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre tail to tighten (16)

2. ch1, do not turn, sc in same st, *ch4, sk 1st, sc in next st*, rep *-* until last st, ch4, join with slst in top of 1st sc

3. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with a slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

4. rejoin yarn in one of the skipped stitches on round 2, ch1, sc in same st, *ch3, sc in next skipped stitch*, rep from *-* around, ch3, join with slst in top of 1st sc

5. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

6. make a magic loop, ch1, *sc into loop, ch4*, rep *-* seven more times, join with slst in top of 1st sc

7. ch1, do not turn, *work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, all into one chain space*, rep *-* around, join with a slst in top of 1st sc, bind off

8. using the centre tail of the smaller flower, layer and stitch the small flower on top of the larger flower

9. stitch the flower onto the headband earwarmer

10. weave in all ends

I hope you find this free pattern useful and make a headband earwarmer of your own. Please let me know if you do make one so I can see your amazing work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) or better still why not join our Facebook group so we can all see!

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Learn to Crochet: Single Crochet Stitch (VIDEO)

In my last two Learn to Crochet videos, I taught you which tools you really need to get started in crochet, and how to work a slipknot and chain. In this video, I am going to show you how to work the single crochet stitch. The single crochet stitch is one of the most basic crochet stitches, and one that I use most days, so it is definitely a useful stitch to know.

For this square, I used a 4mm crochet hook and double knit yarn. You can use whichever hook size and yarn you prefer, but please remember that a different sized hook or yarn will give different finished measurements. To start, you will need to make a slipknot and chain 22. To make the single crochet, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Catch the yarn and bring it through the chain, which should give you two loops on your hook. Catch the yarn again and bring it through both loops. You have just worked a single crochet.

You can now make a slipknot, chain and work a single crochet. Well done! You’re well on your way to becoming an expert crocheter.

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Baby Hoodie (Crochet Pattern)

With the weather getting colder, I figured that now is the best time to release my baby hoodie pattern. I have been making these little baby hoodies for as long as I can remember and I finally managed to write my pattern down as a PDF. The pattern is currently available in sizes newborn, 0-6m and 6-12m. More sizes will be released when I have had chance to sit down and write up the PDF for them. I love that this baby hoodie is so cute and cosy. The hoodie can be made without the bear ears, but for me bear ears are always a plus, so they always get added.

The hoodie is made using double knit yarn and two different sized crochet hooks. The pattern is easy to follow and is suitable for beginners, although basic knowledge of crochet is needed. I have written the pattern using US terminology.

You can find the baby hoodie pattern in my Etsy shop, alongside my other PDF patterns and a few things I have crocheted and are ready made for sale. Feel free to join us in my Facebook group to see more pictures, get feedback and ask any questions you may have.

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Things I Made in August (Roundup)

This month I have been doing a lot of admin, so I haven’t had as much time to crochet as I would’ve liked. I still managed to make lots of cute things though, most of which are up for sale in my Etsy shop.

The first thing I made in August were these very cute baby sandals. I made them for a PDF pattern that I was designing. Both the PDF pattern and the finished sandals are available in my Etsy shop.

I also made some baby booties in three different colours, blue, lilac and beige. I love that these baby booties are so cute and gender neutral. The pattern can be found on my blog and the finished booties can be found on my Etsy shop.

I made lots of earsavers, for use with face masks. I love them because face masks leave me with really sore ears. I gave some to family and friends, and listed some in my Etsy shop. The pattern I used is my own, and is on my blog.

The last things I made in August were varying sizes of baby hoodies, with very cute baby bear ears, for a PDF pattern. The PDF pattern and the finished hoodies can be found in my Etsy shop.

Why not head over to my Facebook group and show us what you have been working on this month. We would love to see it.

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Basic Baby Booties (Free Crochet Pattern)

These crochet baby booties are cute and unisex, making a lovely gift for a new baby. The free pattern is perfect for beginners, or for more experienced crocheters wanting a quick and easy project. The pattern is available in sizes newborn and 0-3 months.

To make your own baby booties, you will need a 4.5mm crochet hook (or whichever size hook you need to achieve the right measurements), double knit yarn, a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

The pattern is available in sizes newborn and 0-3 months. The finished newborn sole should measure 4.25″ and the finished 0-3 months sole should measure 4.5″. My tension tends to be quite tight so please use whichever crochet hook size you need to get these measurements.

Basic Baby Booties (Free Crochet Pattern)

Newborn

To fit up to approximately 3.5” foot

4.25” sole length

Sole:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and two strands double knit yarn held together –

1. ch12, 5dcs in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 8sts, 5dcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of chain), dc in next 8sts, join with slst in top of 1st dc (26)

2. ch1, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 8sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 8sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (36)

Upper:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and one strand double knit yarn –

1. with wrong side facing and working in back loops only, join yarn at bottom of sole, ch1, hdc in same st as ch and around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (36)

2. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 8sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 8, hdc in next st, sc in 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (28)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 8sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 4, hdc in next st, sc in 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (24)

4. ch1, turn, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc (24)

5. ch2, dc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (24)

6. ch1, hdc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (24)

7. ch1, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off and weave in ends (24)

0-3m

To fit up to approximately 3.75” foot

4.5” sole length

Sole:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and two strands double knit yarn held together –

1. ch13, 5dcs in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 9sts, 5dcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of chain), dc in next 9sts, join with slst in top of 1st dc (28)

2. ch1, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (38)

Upper:

With a 4.5mm crochet hook and one strand double knit yarn –

1. with wrong side facing and working in back loops only, join yarn at bottom of sole, ch1, hdc in same st as ch and around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (38)

2. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 9sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 8, hdc in next st, sc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (30)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st as ch and next 9sts, hdc in next st, hdc2tog x 4, hdc in next st, sc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc (26)

4. ch1, turn, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc (26)

5. ch2, dc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (26)

6. ch1, hdc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (26)

7. ch1, sc in same st and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off and weave in ends (26)

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. Please let me know if you make anything using any of my patterns. I would love to see your work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations.

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Learn to Crochet: How to Make a Slipknot and Chain (VIDEO)

If you are following along with my Learn to Crochet series, you will remember that, in my last post, I told you everything you needed to gather before you could get started with your project. This week, I am going to show you how to start your project. Most crochet projects (except some that are worked in the round) start with a slipknot and a certain amount of chains. The first row of stitches is worked into those chains and whatever you are crocheting grows from there. So you can see why it’s important that you know how to chain before you learn anything else.

I am using a 4mm crochet hook and 100% cotton yarn. We are just going to start by making a slipknot and 10 chains. To make a slipknot, you need to hold the tail end of the yarn in your left hand and the working end of the yarn in your right hand. Wrap the working end of the yarn around your index finger, from front to back and then to the top of your index finger again, to make an x shape. Pull the working end of the yarn underneath and through the loop on your finger, then pull both the tail end and working end of the yarn, whilst still keeping hold of the loop, to tighten the slipknot.

To make your first chain, place the slipknot on to your hook, with the tail end at the back and the working end towards the front. Hold the yarn over your index finger. Pass the hook in front of the yarn, catch the yarn with the hook and pull it through the loop on the hook. Repeat until you have 10 chains on your hook.

Well done! You can now make a slipknot and work the chain stitch. You will be a crochet queen in no time!

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Crochet Baby Shorts (Free Pattern)

When my girls were younger, we used to use cloth nappies with them. I used to love making little wool shorties and skirties to go over them, to make sure they stayed dry. After having my son, we decided to go vegan, for various reasons, so little wool shorties were out of the question. I still loved to make little crochet pants and shorties for him, just out of acrylic yarn instead! Today, I want to share my pattern for crochet shorties. They are sized slightly differently for cloth nappies and disposable nappies, with cloth nappies requiring a higher rise (the measurement around the crotch from the front to the back waistband).

This pattern is to fit a newborn, with a waist of up to 15″ and a rise of up to 15″. To make the shorties more snug over a disposable nappy, you could shorten the length of the body by two rows.

To make your own baby shorties, you will need a 5mm crochet hook, a 7mm crochet hook, some double knit yarn, a tape measure, some scissors and a yarn needle.

WAISTBAND:

With a 7mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (3)

2-40. ch1, working in back loops only, sc in each st across (3)

41. taking care not to twist your work, join with a slip stitch under two loops of the first row, this will leave a v shaped opening, which will need stitching up at the end

42. ch1, sc in stitch at base of chain and next 2sts (I counted each row as a stitch), *2scs in next st, sc in next 3sts*, repeat from *-* around to last st, work 2scs in last st, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

43. ch1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

BODY:

1. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch3, turn, dc in stitch at base of chain and next 7sts, hdc in 5sts, sc in 24sts, hdc in 5sts, dc in 7sts, 2dcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch3 (52)

2. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc around till last 2sts, sc2tog, join with slst in first sc (50)

3. ch3, turn, dc in stitch at base of chain and next 7sts, hdc in 5sts, sc in 24sts, hdc in 5sts, dc in 7sts, 2dcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch3 (52)

4-11. repeat rows 2-3

12. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc around till last 2sts, sc2tog, join with slst in first sc, bind off (50)

GUSSET:

1. with back of st facing, count 3sts to the right of the bind off stitch, ignoring the stitch at the base of the ch, join yarn, ch2, sc in same st and in next 5sts – you want the previous rows bind off to be right in the centre of the gusset (6)

2-8. ch2, turn, sc across

9. bind off, leaving a long tail, stitch the gusset to the middle 6sts on the opposite side of pants, check to make sure both legs have 19 stitches each

LEGS:

1. with back of st facing, join yarn in middle of gusset, ch1, work sc in the side of each row along the gusset and all around, join with slst in 1st sc (29)

2. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st around, join with slst in 1st sc (28)

3. ch2, turn, hdc in st at base of ch and each st around, join with slst in 1st hdc (28)

4. ch1, turn, fpdc around first st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* around to end, join with slst in top of 1st fpdc, bind off and weave in all ends

DRAWSTRING:

With a 5mm crochet hook and one strand of DK yarn –

1. ch145, slst in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across, bind off and weave in ends, thread through the holes in the waistband and stitch at the back to secure in place

I hope you love this free pattern and make lots of baby shorties. Please let me know if you make something using one of my patterns, I always love to see your work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see it, or why not join my Facebook group to share your work with us. Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Hot Pad Potholder (Free Pattern)

This week, I wanted a quick and easy project to make when the children were in bed. I always struggle to know what to crochet in the height of summer, because obviously hats and jumpers are out of the picture, and they are my two most crocheted things! I decided to focus on something for the home and, after a lot of scrolling through Pinterest, I decided I wanted to make a potholder for the middle of our dining table. I looked through lots of designs and originally started on a basic square one. I really did not like the way it was turning out, and decided I wanted something a bit more summery and a bit prettier. I pulled out all of my stitches and started working on a round design. I wanted something a bit more than just a plain circle so I started messing around with adding chain spaces to make the holes in the design. It took me a good few attempts and lots of pulling stitches to get a design that I was happy with, but I really love the way it turned out. It definitely did not end up being a quick and easy project for me, design wise at least, but I made a second one when the pattern was finished, and it made up really easily and very quickly. I love the pop of colour it adds to our neutral tablecloth and this will be used every day! I am also planning on making some to gift to people, in a variety of colours.

To make your own, you will need a 5mm crochet hook, 50g double knit yarn, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Potholder Hot Pad (Free Crochet Pattern)

  1. with a 5mm hook and two strands of double knit yarn held together, make a magic loop, ch2, work 12dcs into the loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc (12)
  2. ch1, turn, sc in st at base of ch, ch1, *sc in next st, ch1*, repeat from *-* across to end, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  3. turn but do not chain, slst into 1st chsp, ch2, work 3dcs in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (36)
  4. ch1, turn, sc in st at base of ch, ch2, skip next st, *sc in next st, ch2, skip next st*, repeat from *-* across to end, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  5. turn but do not chain, slst into 1st chsp, ch2, work 3dcs in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (54)
  6. ch1, turn, sc in st at base of ch, ch3, skip next 2sts, *sc in next st, ch3, skip next 2sts*, repeat from *-* across to end, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  7. turn but do not chain, slst into 1st chsp, ch2, work 4dcs in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (72)
  8. ch1, turn, sc in st at base of ch, ch4, skip next 3sts, *sc in next st, ch4, skip next 3sts*, repeat from *-* across to end, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  9. turn but do not chain, slst into 1st chsp, ch2, work 5dcs in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (90)
  10. ch1, turn, sc in st at base of ch, ch3, skip next 2sts, *sc in next st, ch3, skip next 2sts*, repeat from *-* across to end, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  11. ch1, turn, *sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc* in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  12. bind off and weave in ends

I hope you like this free pattern and make your own summery potholder. Let me know if you do make one, I love to see your work. You can tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see what you have made, or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations.Happy crocheting!

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Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

The baby bear hooded cardigan is my most requested pattern and also the bestselling item in my shop. It’s not hard to see why. I have made many of these cardigans for my children and at least one for every other baby in my life. Last week, I decided to design a pair of trousers to match the hooded cardigan, to make a new baby set. I really love the way they turned out and decided to share the newborn size with all of you, so you can make one for all the new babies in your lives.

Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

This set is very thick and cosy. It is worked with two strands of yarn held together. To make your own, you will need a 5mm and 6mm crochet hook, 250g double knit yarn, a tape measure, scissors, five buttons and a yarn needle.

CARDIGAN

To fit up to approximately 16” chest. The finished cardigan should be 20″ around (measured under the arms), 9.75″ shoulder to bottom and 5″ arm inseam.

BODY:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch31, work dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 3sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 9sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts

2-6. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 3dcs in middle st of each of previous row’s 3dcs

7. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and next 10sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 23sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 11sts

8. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 4dcs over each chain space (53)

9-13. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

14. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

15. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

SLEEVES:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn underarm, ch2, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, dc in next 18sts, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, join with slst in top of 1st st (22)

2-7. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st st

8. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and around (16)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

HOOD:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in top corner st, ch2, work 2dcs in same st, dc in each st across to last st, 2dcs in last st (31)

2-11. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (31)

12. fold the hood in half, with right sides together, then stitch along the top to form the hood, bind off and weave in ends

BUTTON BAND:

With a 5mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. with right side facing, join yarn in bottom corner st, ch1, work sc in same st and each st around body and hood to other bottom corner, work 2scs per dc row (106) 31, 44, 31

2. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

3. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and next st, *ch2, skip 1st, sc in 5sts*, repeat from *-* four more times, sc in 68sts

4. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across, working sc in each chain space (106)

5. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

EARS:

1. make a magic loop, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), work 5dcs in loop, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (6)

2. ch1, turn, work 2scs in each st across (12)

3. bind off, leaving a long tail to attach to cardigan

TROUSERS

The unstretched measurements of the trousers should be 15″ waist, 14″ rise, 5″ inside leg and 11″ length.

WAISTBAND:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (3)

2-40. ch1, working in back loops only, sc in each st across (3)

41. taking care not to twist your work, join with a slip stitch under two loops of the first row, this will leave a v shaped opening, which will need stitching up at the end

42. ch1, sc in stitch at base of chain and next 2sts (I counted each row as a stitch), *2scs in next st, sc in next 3sts*, repeat from *-* around to last st, work 2scs in last st, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

43. ch1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

BODY:

1. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

2. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc (50)

3. ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

4-5. repeat rows 2-3

6. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc, bind off (50)

GUSSET:

1. with back of st facing, count back 3sts from bind off stitch, join yarn, ch2, dc in same st and in next 6sts – you want the previous rows bind off to be right in the centre of the gusset (7)

2-3. ch2, turn, dc across

4. bind off, leaving a long tail, stitch the gusset to the middle 7sts on the opposite side of pants, check to make sure both legs have 18 stitches each

LEGS:

1. with back of st facing, join yarn in middle of gusset, ch2, work 2dcs in the side of each dc along the gusset, dc in corner stitch of leg and all around, work 2dcs in the side of the final dc on the gusset, join with slst in 1st dc (26)

2-6. ch1, turn, sc around, join with slst in first sc (26)

7. ch2, turn, *dc2tog, dc in next stitch*, repeat from *-* around, dc2tog last 2 stitches, work dc in same place as turning chain, join with slst in first dc (18)

8. switch back to main colour yarn, ch2, turn, dc around, join with slst in first dc (18)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* around to end, join with slst in top of 1st fpdc, bind off and weave in all ends

DRAWSTRING:

1. with contrasting yarn, ch110, slst in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across, bind off and weave in ends, thread through the holes in the waistband and stitch at the back to secure in place

I hope you enjoy this free pattern and crochet some new baby sets of your own. Let me know if you do use this pattern or any of my other patterns. Feel free to tag me in your work on social media (@adeleuyancrochet). I love to see what you are all making. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Bath Set (Free Pattern)

Don’t you just love giving handmade gifts for Christmas and birthdays. I do! Some people don’t like receiving handmade gifts but I know how much time and effort goes into making them so I always appreciate handmade gifts. I have made this bath set for several of my family and friends for different occasions over the years. It makes a lovely little gift set if paired with a bottle of bubble bath and a bar of soap.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

If you would like to make your own, you will need a 6mm crochet hook and DK yarn. You will also need a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Free Crochet Bath Set Pattern

Bath Puff

Main:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, make a magic ring, ch2, work 10dcs in ring, join with slst in top of 1st dc, do not pull the centre tight (10)
  2. ch2, turn, 3hdcs in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (30)
  3. ch2, turn, 2dcs in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc
  4. repeat rounds 1-3 five more times
  5. weave in outside ends but not magic ring ends

Tie:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, ch60, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across
  2. bind off and weave in ends
  3. fold the tie in half and tie a knot at the bottom to form a loop
  4. loosen magic rings on each piece of bath puff and push the knot through, repeat until all six pieces are on the tie
  5. weave in the magic ring ends, pulling tightly closed around the tie
  6. push the bath puff pieces down firmly and tie a knot at the top, making sure bath puff pieces are still tightly squashed together

Soap Bag

Main:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, ch14, dc in 3rd ch from hook and across (12)
  2. ch2, turn, dc in st at base of ch and across (12)
  3. repeat row 2 eight times or until work measures 7″
  4. fold in half along long edge then work slst down one side, across the bottom and up the other side to make a bag
  5. bind off and weave in ends

Tie:

  1. with one strand DK, ch50, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across
  2. bind off and weave in ends
  3. weave through the top row on the soap bag and knot each end
  4. add soap and pull tie tight to close

I hope you enjoyed making this crochet bath set. I would love to see any sets you make using this pattern. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them! Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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