Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

The baby bear hooded cardigan is my most requested pattern and also the bestselling item in my shop. It’s not hard to see why. I have made many of these cardigans for my children and at least one for every other baby in my life. Last week, I decided to design a pair of trousers to match the hooded cardigan, to make a new baby set. I really love the way they turned out and decided to share the newborn size with all of you, so you can make one for all the new babies in your lives.

Newborn Hooded Cardigan and Trousers Set (Free Crochet Pattern)

This set is very thick and cosy. It is worked with two strands of yarn held together. To make your own, you will need a 5mm and 6mm crochet hook, 250g double knit yarn, a tape measure, scissors, five buttons and a yarn needle.

CARDIGAN

To fit up to approximately 16” chest. The finished cardigan should be 20″ around (measured under the arms), 9.75″ shoulder to bottom and 5″ arm inseam.

BODY:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch31, work dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 3sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 9sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts, 3dcs in next, dc in 4sts

2-6. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 3dcs in middle st of each of previous row’s 3dcs

7. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and next 10sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 23sts, ch4, skip 16sts, dc in 11sts

8. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across, working 4dcs over each chain space (53)

9-13. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

14. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (53)

15. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

SLEEVES:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn underarm, ch2, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, dc in next 18sts, dc2tog, skip join st, dc2tog, join with slst in top of 1st st (22)

2-7. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st st

8. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and around (16)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off and weave in ends

HOOD:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in top corner st, ch2, work 2dcs in same st, dc in each st across to last st, 2dcs in last st (31)

2-11. ch2, turn, work dc in same st and across (31)

12. fold the hood in half, with right sides together, then stitch along the top to form the hood, bind off and weave in ends

BUTTON BAND:

With a 5mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. with right side facing, join yarn in bottom corner st, ch1, work sc in same st and each st around body and hood to other bottom corner, work 2scs per dc row (106) 31, 44, 31

2. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

3. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and next st, *ch2, skip 1st, sc in 5sts*, repeat from *-* four more times, sc in 68sts

4. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across, working sc in each chain space (106)

5. ch1, turn, work sc in same st and across (106)

EARS:

1. make a magic loop, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), work 5dcs in loop, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (6)

2. ch1, turn, work 2scs in each st across (12)

3. bind off, leaving a long tail to attach to cardigan

TROUSERS

The unstretched measurements of the trousers should be 15″ waist, 14″ rise, 5″ inside leg and 11″ length.

WAISTBAND:

With a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of DK yarn held together –

1. ch4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across (3)

2-40. ch1, working in back loops only, sc in each st across (3)

41. taking care not to twist your work, join with a slip stitch under two loops of the first row, this will leave a v shaped opening, which will need stitching up at the end

42. ch1, sc in stitch at base of chain and next 2sts (I counted each row as a stitch), *2scs in next st, sc in next 3sts*, repeat from *-* around to last st, work 2scs in last st, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

43. ch1, turn, sc in each stitch around, join with slst in 1st sc (50)

BODY:

1. change to contrasting yarn if using, ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

2. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc (50)

3. ch4, turn, trc in stitch at base of chain and next 6sts, htrc in 4sts, dc in 28sts, htrc in 4sts, trc in 6sts, 2trcs in last stitch, join with slst in top of ch5 (52)

4-5. repeat rows 2-3

6. ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc around till last 2sts, dc2tog, join with slst in first dc, bind off (50)

GUSSET:

1. with back of st facing, count back 3sts from bind off stitch, join yarn, ch2, dc in same st and in next 6sts – you want the previous rows bind off to be right in the centre of the gusset (7)

2-3. ch2, turn, dc across

4. bind off, leaving a long tail, stitch the gusset to the middle 7sts on the opposite side of pants, check to make sure both legs have 18 stitches each

LEGS:

1. with back of st facing, join yarn in middle of gusset, ch2, work 2dcs in the side of each dc along the gusset, dc in corner stitch of leg and all around, work 2dcs in the side of the final dc on the gusset, join with slst in 1st dc (26)

2-6. ch1, turn, sc around, join with slst in first sc (26)

7. ch2, turn, *dc2tog, dc in next stitch*, repeat from *-* around, dc2tog last 2 stitches, work dc in same place as turning chain, join with slst in first dc (18)

8. switch back to main colour yarn, ch2, turn, dc around, join with slst in first dc (18)

9. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* around to end, join with slst in top of 1st fpdc, bind off and weave in all ends

DRAWSTRING:

1. with contrasting yarn, ch110, slst in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across, bind off and weave in ends, thread through the holes in the waistband and stitch at the back to secure in place

I hope you enjoy this free pattern and crochet some new baby sets of your own. Let me know if you do use this pattern or any of my other patterns. Feel free to tag me in your work on social media (@adeleuyancrochet). I love to see what you are all making. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Face Mask (Free Pattern)

With everything going on at the minute, and the amount of conflicting information available, it is very difficult to know what to do for the best. I have seen lots of articles saying that face masks should not be worn by the general public because they do not work and are only meant to be used for a short time. However, I have also seen plenty of articles saying that every little helps and that we should be wearing masks, just like other countries are doing, and that if they do nothing else, at least they stop you from touching your face whilst outside, and potentially stop you from infecting other people if you are a carrier but are not showing symptoms. That last point was enough for me to make face masks for my family. We are mostly staying at home, and we are extremely lucky to be able to, but the thought of possibly being a carrier and infecting someone who does not have that luxury or may have underlying health issues, does not sit well with me at all. A few days ago, I sat down and wrote out a pattern for face masks. I made three sizes, adult, child and toddler, and will share all three with you today. It is, of course, up to you whether you choose to wear masks in public, but, for me, the pros far outweigh the cons.

To make your own face mask, you will need some double knit yarn (I used two strands held together), a 4mm, 6mm or 6.5mm hook, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle. You will also need some type of cotton material, to be used as a lining. The masks work up very quickly and they are very easy to make.

Adult:

1. with a 6.5mm crochet hook and two strands of double knit yarn held together, ch25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 5sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

2-11. ch1, turn, sc in 6sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

12. ch1, turn, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off

13. with wsf, join yarn at bottom corner, ch1, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* across bottom edge, bind off

14. with rsf, join yarn at top corner of mask, ch1, sc2tog in every stitch down the side of the mask (7)

15. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog (3)

16. ch12, turn, join with slst in last st of row, bind off

17-19. repeat rows 14-16 on opposite side of mask

20. weave in all ends, line with cotton and wear!

Child:

1. with a 6mm crochet hook and two strands of double knit yarn held together, ch25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 5sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

2-11. ch1, turn, sc in 6sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

12. ch1, turn, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off

13. with wsf, join yarn at bottom corner, ch1, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* across bottom edge, bind off

14. with rsf, join yarn at top corner of mask, ch1, sc2tog in every stitch down the side of the mask (7)

15. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog (3)

16. ch12, turn, join with slst in last st of row, bind off

17-19. repeat rows 14-16 on opposite side of mask

20. weave in all ends, line with cotton and wear!

Toddler:

1. with a 4mm crochet hook and two strands of double knit yarn held together, ch25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 5sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

2-10. ch1, turn, sc in 6sts, hdc in 4sts, dc in 4sts, hdc in 4sts, sc in 6sts

11. ch1, turn, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* to end, bind off

12. with wsf, join yarn at bottom corner, ch1, *sc2tog, sc in 2sts*, repeat from *-* across bottom edge, bind off

13. with rsf, join yarn at top corner of mask, ch1, sc2tog in every stitch down the side of the mask, sc in last st (7)

14. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog (3)

15. ch12, turn, join with slst in last st of row, bind off

16-18. repeat rows 13-15 on opposite side of mask

19. weave in all ends, line with cotton and wear!

I hope you have enjoyed this free pattern. If you make anything from my patterns, please tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see. I love to see what you have been making. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. For now, stay safe and happy crocheting!

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Owl Earflap Hat (Free Crochet Pattern)

Ever since my babies were born, I have preferred an earflap hat over a basic beanie. I find that an earflap hat keeps little ears warmer, it can be tied on to stop it from falling off, and it tends to fit for longer than a beanie hat. All of my babies have had earflap hats made by me and it is my usual gift for new babies aswell.

A few years ago, I came up with this pattern for an owl earflap hat. Since then, I have made hundreds of hats with it. This hat is really easy to make but it looks like a lot of work went into it. It can be made in a variety of colours to mix it up but looks amazing in neutral colours well.

This pattern is for an owl earflap hat in size newborn. Newborn size will fit up to approximately 14.5″ head circumference. The finished hat has a diameter of 3.9″ and is 4.75″ in height.

To make your own owl earflap hat, you will need approximately 30g double knit yarn, a 3mm crochet hook, a 4mm crochet hook, scissors, a tape measure, scraps of white, black and yellow yarn and a yarn needle.

Crochet Owl Earflap Hat (Free Pattern)

Hat:

1. with a 4mm crochet hook, make a magic loop, ch2, work 12dcs in loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (12)

2. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (24)

3. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch, dc in next st, *2dcs in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (36)

4. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch, dc in next 2sts, *2dcs in next st, dc in next 2sts*, repeat from *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

5-6. ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

7-11. change to second yarn colour if using, ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

12. bind off and weave in ends

Earflap 1:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 6th st from bind off, ch1, sc in same st and next 12sts (13)

2. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (11)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (11)

4. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (9)

5. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (9)

6. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (7)

7. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (7)

8. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (5)

9. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (5)

10. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (3)

11. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (3)

12. bind off and weave in ends

Earflap 2:

1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 30th st from bind off, ch1, sc in same st and next 12sts (13)

2. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (11)

3. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (11)

4. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (9)

5. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (9)

6. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (7)

7. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (7)

8. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (5)

9. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (5)

10. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (3)

11. ch1, turn, sc in same st and across (3)

12. bind off and weave in ends

Eyes: make two

1. with black yarn and a 3mm hook, make a magic loop, ch2, work 12hdcs in loop, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (12)

2. (inc row) with colour yarn, ch2, turn, work 2hdcs in st at base of ch and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (24)

3. (inc row) with white yarn, ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch, dc in next st, *2dcs in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (36)

4. bind off, leaving a long tail to attach to hat

Beak:

1. with yellow yarn and a 3mm hook, ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)

2. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc across to last 2sts, sc2tog (4)

3. ch1, turn, sc across (4)

4. ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc2tog (2)

5. ch1, turn, sc across (2)

6. ch1, turn, sc2tog, bind off, leaving a long tail to attach to hat

Finishing:

1. with right side facing, join yarn at back, ch1, sc in each st around bottom of hat to bottom corner of 1st earflap, work 2scs in corner st, sc in middle st, ch35, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across, sc again in middle st to secure, work 2scs in corner st, sc around to bottom corner of 2nd earflap, work 2scs in corner st, sc in middle st, ch35, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across, sc again in middle st to secure, work 2scs in corner st, sc around to end, join with slst in 1st st, bind off and weave in ends

2. attach eyes to front of hat

3. attach beak under the eyes

4. to make the ear tassels, cut 6 lengths of yarn 5″ in length then use a crochet hook to pull them through the hat between the 3rd and 4th row, secure with a loop

I hope you enjoyed making this pretty hat. Let me know if you make it. I would love to see your creations on social media. Tag me (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can find it. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations.

What other patterns would you like to see?

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Preemie Flower Beanie (Free Crochet Pattern)

I made my first preemie flower beanie around 8 years ago, for a friend of mine who had just given birth to her baby at 24 weeks gestation. This hat fit the baby really nicely and she was approximately 5lbs at the time.

This hat will fit up to approximately 12″ head circumference. I tend to crochet quite tightly so you may need to adjust your hook size to get the diameter you need. At the end of round 4, the hat should measure 3.4″ in diameter, and the finished hat should measure 4.5″ in length.

To make your own preemie flower beanie hat, you will need some super soft DK yarn, a 3mm crochet hook, a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Preemie Flower Beanie (Free Crochet Pattern)

With a 3mm crochet hook –

1. make a magic loop, ch2, work 12dcs in loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop (12)

2. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch and each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (24)

3. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch, dc in next st, *2dcs in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (36)

4. (inc row) ch2, turn, work 2dcs in st at base of ch, dc in next 2sts, *2dcs in next st, dc in next 2sts*, repeat from *-* around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

5-10. ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

11. join contrasting yarn if using, ch2, turn, work dc in st at base of ch and in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc (48)

12-13. ch1, turn, fpdc around 1st st of previous row, *bpdc around next st of previous row, fpdc around next st of previous row*, repeat from *-* around to end, join with slst in top of 1st fpdc

14. bind off and weave in ends


Flower:

  1. with contrasting yarn, make a magic loop, ch1, *sc in ring, ch3*, repeat from *-* five more times to make six petals, join with slst in top of 1st sc, pull centre yarn tail tight to close magic loop
  2. ch1, do not turn, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in each chsp around, join with slst in top of 1st sc
  3. bind off, attach to hat and weave in ends

I hope you have enjoyed this free pattern. I would love to see any hats you make using it. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Dishcloth (Free Pattern)

I love making these pretty dishcloths to use when I wash the dishes. They are quite abrasive, due to the pattern, and are very good at removing dirt and grease. They wash well in the washing machine and dry quickly. I love the way that they add a pop of colour to an otherwise dull job. This size is perfect for me but they can easily be made bigger or smaller, depending on what you need.

To make your own, you will need a 4mm hook, a small amount of double knit yarn, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

Crochet Dishcloth (Free Pattern)

  1. loosely ch31, 2dcs in 5th st from ch, ch1, 2dcs in same st (shell made), sk1st, *dc in next st, sk1st, 2dcs in next st, ch1, 2dcs in same st, sk1st*, repeat from *-* across to last st, work dc in last st
  2. ch3, turn, work shell in previous rows shell chsp, dc in top of previous rows dc, end with dc in top of ch3
  3. repeat row 2 ten times
  4. do not ch or turn, work 4 more dcs in corner st, work alternating shells and dcs across in each hole on way up the side of the cloth until you reach the next corner, work 5dcs in the corner space, continue until you have worked 3 edges, do 4dcs in last corner, join with a sl st in top of ch 3
  5. bind off and weave in ends

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. I would love to see any dishcloths you make! Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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Braided Pixie Hat (Free Crochet Pattern)

Is it even possible for a child to wear a pixie hat and not look the cutest they’ve ever looked? My eldest two think they are way too cool to wear Mammy made stuff now, but I can still get away with dressing the baby in little cute hats. This pixie hat will keep little ears warm and can be tied to make sure it won’t fall off (or be pulled off).

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

This hat should fix approximately 3-10 years. Obviously the hat will be baggier on a 3 year old and tighter on a 10 year old. You can easily size up or down as needed to get the look and fit you want.

I crochet quite tightly so you may need to play around with hook sizes to get the required hat size. My finished hat is 8.5″ wide and 9″ tall, so aim for a starting rectangle of around 17″ x 8.5″.

For this free crochet pattern, you will need double knit yarn in the colour of your choice. You will also need a 6mm crochet hook, a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Braided Pixie Hat (free crochet pattern)

Main:

  1. ch62, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across (60)
  2. ch2, turn, hdc in st at base of ch and across (60)
  3. repeat row 2 another 20 times, or until piece measures approximately 17″ x 8.25″
  4. fold in half lengthwise to make a bonnet shape, stitch the back together then bind off

Neck:

  1. with wsf, join yarn in corner st, ch1, sc in same st and each row across (45)
  2. ch1, turn, *sc in next st, sc2tog*, repeat from *-* across (30)
  3. ch1, turn, sc across (30)
  4. repeat row 3 (30)
  5. do not ch or turn, work a second sc in corner st, *sc in next st, sc2tog*, repeat from *-* across front to end, sc in corner st, join with slst to previous corner sc, bind off and weave in all ends

Braids:

  1. cut 12 lengths of yarn measuring 30″ each
  2. find the corner of the hat, at the front, and thread the 12 lengths through, hanging half of the length either side of the hole, so you end up with 24 strands of yarn
  3. braid the strands together in groups of 8
  4. tie off with a knot at the bottom and trim the ends
  5. repeat on the other side of the hat

I hope you enjoyed making this cute crochet pixie hat. I would love to see any hats you make using this pattern. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them! Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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3D Butterfly (Free Crochet Pattern)

I first made a little 3D butterfly about 5 years ago, for a yarn bombing project I was taking part in with my local crochet group. We all made lots of flowers and butterflies and decorated a wall in the town centre with them. It looked amazing, if I say so myself. I recently tried to follow the pattern that I wrote back then and, as I wasn’t as experienced in pattern writing back then, it seemed unnecessarily complicated. I found myself getting frustrated with the pattern so I decided to update it. This is the updated pattern, easier and quicker to make but the end butterfly is still almost identical.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

If you would like to make your own, you will need a 4mm crochet hook and DK yarn. You will also need a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

3D Butterfly (Free Crochet Pattern)

Wings:

1. with mc, make a magic loop, ch2, work 16dcs in loop, join with slst in top of 1st dc, pull centre yarn tail tightly to close loop (16)

2. ch2, do not turn, 2dcs in st at base of ch, ch1, 2dcs in same st, sk1st, *(2dcs, ch1, 2dcs) in next st, sk1st*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st dc

3. do not ch or turn, place stitch marker under join st, *2dcs in next chsp, ch1, 2dcs in same chsp, slst inbetween previous row’s shells*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st dc

4. ch1, do not turn, hdc in st at base of ch, dc in next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in chsp, dc in next st, hdc in next st, slst in previous row’s slst, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in chsp, dc in next st, hdc in next st, slst in previous row’s slst*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st hdc

5. join cc, ch1, do not turn, *hdc in 3sts, 3dcs in chsp, hdc in 3sts, slst in previous row’s slst*, repeat from *-* to end, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off and weave in ends

Body:

1.with cc, ch36, bind off, fold butterfly in half and wrap body around wings, tie at the top of the wings to secure, tie a knot in the top of each antennae and weave in ends

I hope you enjoyed making this little 3D crochet butterfly. I would love to see any butterflies you make using this pattern. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them! Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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Mimie’s Big Bow Sandals (Free Crochet Pattern)

I first made a pair of these little sandals when my middle child was a newborn, so 9 years ago! Since then, I have made hundreds of these little sandals. They are very well received as a new baby or baby shower present.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

Big Bow Baby Sandals (Free Crochet Pattern)

I have included instructions for preemie, newborn, 0-3months and 3-6months. The sandals are not suitable for babies who are cruising or walking.

I tend to crochet quite tightly so you may need to adjust your crochet hook size or yarn thickness to achieve the correct sole size. Try with the recommended crochet hook size and DK yarn first, then scale up or down from there.

The sole on the finished sandal should be 3.75″ long for preemie, 4.25″ long for newborn, 4.5″ long for 0-3months or 4.75″ long for 3-6months.

For this free crochet pattern, you will need double knit yarn in the colours of your choice. You will also need a 4mm crochet hook, a tape measure, a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Preemie (3.75″ to fit up to 3″ foot length)

Sole:

  1. ch12, 4hdcs in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 8sts, 4hdcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of the ch) hdc in next 8sts, join with slst in 1st hdc (24)
  2. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 7sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 7sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (34)
  3. ch1, turn, 2scs in same st as ch, work 2scs in each of the next 6sts, sc in 10sts, work 2scs in each of the next 7sts, sc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st sc, bind off (48)

Front Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 8th st, counting left from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 3sts (4)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (4)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 8 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to other side of sandal

Back Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, ignore the st at the base of bind off st then join yarn in 8th st, counting right from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 4sts (5)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (5)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 6 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to sole

Bow:

  1. ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 17 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail
  5. fold the bow in half to make a 2″ rectangle then stitch together with the tail, gather the centre of the bow tightly with yarn, then secure and weave in ends

Finishing:

  1. use the tail to attach the front strap to the opposite side of the sandal
  2. fold the back strap down backwards and stitch last row of strap to first row of strap to create a channel for the ribbon
  3. weave in all ends
  4. stitch bow to front strap
  5. cut a piece of thin ribbon, long enough to go around baby’s ankle with spare to tie a bow, heat seal the edges
  6. insert ribbon into back strap channel and stitch in place for safety

Newborn (4.25″ to fit up to 3.5″ foot length)

Sole:

  1. ch12, 4hdcs in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 8sts, 4hdcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of the ch) hdc in next 8sts, join with slst in 1st hdc (24)
  2. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 7sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 7sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (34)
  3. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, work 2hdcs in each of the next 6sts, hdc in 10sts, work 2hdcs in each of the next 7sts, hdc in 10sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (48)

Front Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 8th st, counting left from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 3sts (4)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (4)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 8 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to other side of sandal

Back Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, ignore the st at the base of bind off st then join yarn in 9th st, counting right from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 5sts (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 6 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to sole

Bow:

  1. ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 17 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail
  5. fold the bow in half to make a 2″ rectangle then stitch together with the tail, gather the centre of the bow tightly with yarn, then secure and weave in ends

Finishing:

  1. use the tail to attach the front strap to the opposite side of the sandal
  2. fold the back strap down backwards and stitch last row of strap to first row of strap to create a channel for the ribbon
  3. weave in all ends
  4. stitch bow to front strap
  5. cut a piece of thin ribbon, long enough to go around baby’s ankle with spare to tie a bow, heat seal the edges
  6. insert ribbon into back strap channel and stitch in place for safety

0-3m (4.5″ to fit up to 3.75″ foot length)

Sole:

  1. ch14, 4hdcs in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 10sts, 4hdcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of the ch) hdc in next 10sts, join with slst in 1st hdc (28)
  2. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 9sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (38)
  3. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, work 2hdcs in each of the next 6sts, hdc in 12sts, work 2hdcs in each of the next 7sts, hdc in 12sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (52)

Front Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 9th st, counting left from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 3sts (4)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (4)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 9 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to other side of sandal

Back Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, ignore the st at the base of bind off st then join yarn in 9th st, counting right from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 5sts (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 6 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to sole

Bow:

  1. ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 17 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail
  5. fold the bow in half to make a 2″ rectangle then stitch together with the tail, gather the centre of the bow tightly with yarn, then secure and weave in ends

Finishing:

  1. use the tail to attach the front strap to the opposite side of the sandal
  2. fold the back strap down backwards and stitch last row of strap to first row of strap to create a channel for the ribbon
  3. weave in all ends
  4. stitch bow to front strap
  5. cut a piece of thin ribbon, long enough to go around baby’s ankle with spare to tie a bow, heat seal the edges
  6. insert ribbon into back strap channel and stitch in place for safety

3-6m (4.75″ to fit up to 4″ foot length)

Sole:

  1. ch16, 4hdcs in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 12sts, 4hdcs in last st, (turn to work along opposite side of the ch) hdc in next 12sts, join with slst in 1st hdc (32)
  2. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, hdc in next 11sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 5sts, hdc in next 11sts, work 2hdcs in each of next 4sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (42)
  3. ch2, turn, 2hdcs in same st as ch, work 2hdcs in each of the next 6sts, hdc in 14sts, work 2hdcs in each of the next 7sts, hdc in 14sts, join with slst in top of 1st hdc, bind off (56)

Front Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, join yarn in 11th st, counting left from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 3sts (4)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (4)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 9 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to other side of sandal

Back Strap:

  1. with wrong side facing, ignore the st at the base of bind off st then join yarn in 9th st, counting right from bind off st, ch1, sc in same st and next 5sts (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 6 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail to stitch strap to sole

Bow:

  1. ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6)
  2. ch1, turn, sc across (6)
  3. repeat row 2 a further 17 times
  4. bind off, leaving a long tail
  5. fold the bow in half to make a 2″ rectangle then stitch together with the tail, gather the centre of the bow tightly with yarn, then secure and weave in ends

Finishing:

  1. use the tail to attach the front strap to the opposite side of the sandal
  2. fold the back strap down backwards and stitch last row of strap to first row of strap to create a channel for the ribbon
  3. weave in all ends
  4. stitch bow to front strap
  5. cut a piece of thin ribbon, long enough to go around baby’s ankle with spare to tie a bow, heat seal the edges
  6. insert ribbon into back strap channel and stitch in place for safety

I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern and make many pairs of little baby sandals. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) with any of your makes from my patterns. I always love to see your work. Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Bath Set (Free Pattern)

Don’t you just love giving handmade gifts for Christmas and birthdays. I do! Some people don’t like receiving handmade gifts but I know how much time and effort goes into making them so I always appreciate handmade gifts. I have made this bath set for several of my family and friends for different occasions over the years. It makes a lovely little gift set if paired with a bottle of bubble bath and a bar of soap.

This pattern should be suitable for beginners. If you do not yet know how to crochet, you can find a basic how to crochet video here.

If you would like to make your own, you will need a 6mm crochet hook and DK yarn. You will also need a pair of scissors and a yarn needle.

Free Crochet Bath Set Pattern

Bath Puff

Main:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, make a magic ring, ch2, work 10dcs in ring, join with slst in top of 1st dc, do not pull the centre tight (10)
  2. ch2, turn, 3hdcs in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st hdc (30)
  3. ch2, turn, 2dcs in each st around, join with slst in top of 1st dc
  4. repeat rounds 1-3 five more times
  5. weave in outside ends but not magic ring ends

Tie:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, ch60, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across
  2. bind off and weave in ends
  3. fold the tie in half and tie a knot at the bottom to form a loop
  4. loosen magic rings on each piece of bath puff and push the knot through, repeat until all six pieces are on the tie
  5. weave in the magic ring ends, pulling tightly closed around the tie
  6. push the bath puff pieces down firmly and tie a knot at the top, making sure bath puff pieces are still tightly squashed together

Soap Bag

Main:

  1. with two strands DK yarn held together, ch14, dc in 3rd ch from hook and across (12)
  2. ch2, turn, dc in st at base of ch and across (12)
  3. repeat row 2 eight times or until work measures 7″
  4. fold in half along long edge then work slst down one side, across the bottom and up the other side to make a bag
  5. bind off and weave in ends

Tie:

  1. with one strand DK, ch50, slst in 2nd ch from hook and across
  2. bind off and weave in ends
  3. weave through the top row on the soap bag and knot each end
  4. add soap and pull tie tight to close

I hope you enjoyed making this crochet bath set. I would love to see any sets you make using this pattern. Feel free to tag me on social media (@adeleuyancrochet) so I can see them! Or why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations. Happy crocheting.

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Welcome to my new blog

Hi everyone and welcome to my website. I am so happy to have you here. My name is Adele and my family and I live in sunny Shropshire.

I offer free patterns on my blog and free videos on my YouTube channel. I also have a shop, which I use to stock my PDF patterns aswell as any handmade items I have for sale.

I have been crocheting for the past 11 years and really enjoy it. It is one of my favourite ways to relax. Being sat in front of a good film with a ball of yarn and a crochet hook sounds like the perfect night to me.

I started writing my own patterns not long after I learned to crochet. I found that when I followed other people’s patterns, I would forever be adjusting here and then to make the final outcome the way I wanted it to be.

In the end, it became easier for me to just write my own patterns than to find and adjust a similar pattern. These days, pattern writing is second nature to me, and I wanted to share that with you.

If you make anything using one of my patterns, I would love to see it. Why not join our Facebook group to show off your creations!

I hope you enjoy my content and find something useful. If you would like to see more of me, you can find me on Youtube, Etsy, Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Twitter and Pinterest.

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